As may be expected from your former child star, justin bieber clothes has received many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented having a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But although some of his tries to toughen up are already met with derision, the most up-to-date step in the Biebvolution is in fact bang on the fashion money. There were ripped jeans. There has been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts together with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen lots of layering – and many raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) nevertheless the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in a mood that is sweeping through menswear – and may be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
In short: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is within. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge having a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess males, but the single thing you would never call it is hipster – manicured beards should be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore on the teen awards, is integral towards the rise in popularity of denim and of jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the level of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You paid for that? Do want me to set proper hems on those?”, that has legs. Elsewhere in the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers which had been roughly stop on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; in close proximity, the holes in these knits are layered across a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – will there be in all the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a great reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, just about the most in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures use a typical masculine rawness. In the short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for your latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is it Man?, as the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff was throughout probably the most talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which was held in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. The majority of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); even show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots plus a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is merely set to continue: right after the show, among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy can be another of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has become supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy carry out Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, however, not.
The truth is, if all else fails, the real key to this look is actually a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for ladies (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all of the justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear over the past few years. Not only that, it’s easy to chuck on, doesn’t seem like you’ve made an attempt but suggests you are aware of what’s going on. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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